Seattle Wine Blog

This blog is dedicated to commentary on all aspects of wine, especially short entries to help you find the best wines without the usual hype and spin. These are my frank, independent opinions, usually based on tasting wine at a public event, off the shelf or at the winery. "All creative acts must arise out of a specific soil and flicker with a spirit of place" -D.H. Lawrence

Thursday, February 19, 2009

The Last Enchilada

Fifty lucky winners attended the "First World Food And Wine Championship" at Dove Mountain Grill just at the entrance to the Ritz Carlton PGA championship site. World class Master Sommelier, Laura Williamson and three star quality Chef Bruce Yim, put on an amazing performance last night at their first Winemaker Dinner at the Grill with Bergevin Lane owner, Annette Bergevin, Many of the lucky guests were friends of Annette's father, Gary, founder of Canoe Ridge winery. Some were friends of friends - just a few degrees of separation. The lovely Lille, said, "This is the last enchilada I'll ever eat, because no other enchilada could ever live up to this braised duck enchilada" served with Magret of duck atop in an ancho chile chocolate sauce. Laura must have seen me coming to serve "Duck Two Ways" paired with the perfect red wine for southwest cuisine - 2006 Bergevin Lane Calico Red*, a blend of Merlot, Cab Sauv, Syrah, Zin and Cab Franc.

The evening started with NV Mountain Dome Sparkling* wine from the small Spokane Washington winery specializing in limited production bubbly. The wine is Brut in style, that is to say, dry. Not big and yeasty, it was the perfect apero, or aperitif. It is an amazing value priced at a very reasonable $17, less than half the price of a comparable French Champagne. This was followed by an amuse-bouche of Asian Pear Panzanella with warm brie and dried apricot vinaigrette paired with an amazingly crystalline 2007 Bergevin Lane Viognier drawn straight from the barrel.

The duck two ways was a hard act to follow, but, no problem, a totally deconstructed post-modern BLT did the trick. Trickster, Bruce Yim served thinly sliced roasted pork loin with rosti potatoes (hash browns?) Arizona Tomato Salad and bacon demi (the last BLT?) accompanied by 2005 Bergevin Lane Syrah* - the perfect match - each enhancing the other. Like so many of Annette's other wines, the Syrah has a soft gentle touch, a delightful contrast to some of the huge monsters out of Walla Walla.

No sweet wine and dessert in the desert for Annette! Instead, a cheese course paired with 2006 Bergevin Cabernet Sauvgnon. The cheese called Pave d'Auphinois on the menu looked, smelled and tasted like d'Affinois to me. Whatever it was, it was fit for a Dauphine when matched with the Cab. An evening fit for a King or a Dauphine!

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